Broad Peak Expedition

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Duration

45 Days

Group Size

8 persons

Location

Karakoram Range

Country

China/Pakistan

Altitude

8847M

Accomodation

yes

Meals

yes

$38,000

Broad Peak is located in the Karakoram Range, along the border between Pakistan and China. The peak, the twelfth tallest in the world and fourth tallest in Pakistan, received its name from its broad summit, over 1.5 km in length, containing five separate peaks: Broad Peak (8,051 m.), Rocky Summit (8,028 m.), Broad Peak Central (8,011 m.), Broad Peak North (7,490), and Kharut Kangri (6,942 m.). It was first successfully summitted in June, 1957, by an Austrian team consisting of Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Herman Buhl (also credited with the first ascent of Nanga Parbat). This first ascent was accomplished without supplemental oxygen, high altitude porters, or base camp support.

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Broad Peak is located in the Karakoram Range, along the border between Pakistan and China. The peak, the twelfth tallest in the world and fourth tallest in Pakistan, received its name from its broad summit, over 1.5 km in length, containing five separate peaks: Broad Peak (8,051 m.), Rocky Summit (8,028 m.), Broad Peak Central (8,011 m.), Broad Peak North (7,490), and Kharut Kangri (6,942 m.). It was first successfully summitted in June, 1957, by an Austrian team consisting of Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Herman Buhl (also credited with the first ascent of Nanga Parbat). This first ascent was accomplished without supplemental oxygen, high altitude porters, or base camp support.

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Trip Overview

Broad Peak is located in the Karakoram Range, along the border between Pakistan and China. The peak, the twelfth tallest in the world and fourth tallest in Pakistan, received its name from its broad summit, over 1.5 km in length, containing five separate peaks: Broad Peak (8,051 m.), Rocky Summit (8,028 m.), Broad Peak Central (8,011 m.), Broad Peak North (7,490), and Kharut Kangri (6,942 m.). It was first successfully summitted in June, 1957, by an Austrian team consisting of Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Herman Buhl (also credited with the first ascent of Nanga Parbat). This first ascent was accomplished without supplemental oxygen, high altitude porters, or base camp support.

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Day- 1
ISLAMABAD
Depart from your own destination, arriving Islamabad the next day and transfer to the hotel for a few hours’ sleep. After an early breakfast, we return to the airport for the flight to Skardu, which usually departs mid-morning. Given good weather, this is perhaps the most spectacular commercial flight in the world, with magnificent views of Nanga Parbat, the ninth highest mountain in the world. The flight, however, will not operate in poor weather, and you must be prepared for a wait in Islamabad if the flight is canceled. - Altitude: 512m - Residence: Hotel
Day- 2
CHILAS
In case of cancellation of the flight (13-14 hrs), drive by air-conditioned minibus to Chilas (480 km) on Karakoram Highway. - Altitude: 1265m - Residence:Hote
Day-3
SKARDU
Complete road journey (10-11 hrs) to Skardu (275 km). En-route has a good view of Nanga Parbat (8125m) at the junction of the Indus River and the rapids and fall of the Indus River. - Altitude: 2467m - Residence: Hotel
Day- 4
SKARDU
Full day for official formalities and final preparation of Expedition at Skardu. - Altitude: 2467m - Residence: Hotel
Day- 5
ASKOLI
- After a free day in Skardu, we travel by Jeep to Askole, the last village between us and K2. This journey takes about 7 hours and is on very rough narrow tracks often blocked/damaged by landslides. - Altitude: 3050m - Residence: Camping
Day- 6
JHULA
- We set off early to avoid the heat of the day. We follow the Braldu river valley through green pastures and after crossing the Biafo River, we skirt around the base of the terminal moraines of the Glacier for lunch at Korophon. Beyond here, a new path has been cut through the cliffs making the walk to camp straightforward. 7 to 8 hours walking. - Altitude: 3200m - Residence: Camping
Day-7
PAJU
- We continue up the Braldo River, sometimes close to the raging water, sometimes taking a higher path used by pack animals. If the weather is clear, we get our first glimpse of Broad Peak today. Despite the stories in old guidebooks and journals, much has been done in recent years to remove rubbish and human waste to leave a much cleaner environment with well-managed camps. 7 to 8 hours walking. -Altitude: 3450m - Residence: Camping
Day- 8
PAJU CAMP REST & ACCLIMATIZATION
- Altitude: 3450m - Residence: Camping
Day- 9
URDUKAS
- Today we should get our first distant sight of Broad Peak and the Gasherbrums. A shorter day of walking up the glacier to the campsite, which is located on a grassy slope high above the Baltoro and commands one of the most dramatic mountain views in the world, dominated by ‘Nameless Tower’. 6-7 hours walking. - Altitude: 3980m - Residence: Camping
Day-10
GOROR II
- We continue gently upwards, passing the Yermanandu glacier, which flows down from Masherbrum (7821m), while the Muztagh Tower pierces the sky on the north side. At the head of the glacier, Gasherbrum 4 looms large. Tonight we camp on the glacier. 6-7 hours walking. - Altitude: 4200m -Residence: Camping
Day-11
BROAD PEAK BASE CAMP
- Today our Trek heading toward Concordia, the junction point to meet Baltoro trekking and mountaineering groups. We take our lunch at Concordia and head to Broad Peak Base Camp. - Altitude:4850M - Residence: Camping
Day-12 To 38
CLIMBING PERIOD (27 DAYS) FOR BROAD PEAK
- Residence: Climbing
Day-39
ALI CAMP
-Option 1: Trek return via the same route. - Option 2: Heading south, we cross several moraine ridges on the Baltoro glacier before turning up the Vigne glacier, which is flatter and less crevassed. Early to bed for an early start tomorrow. 6 to 7 hours walking. - Altitude:4850m - Residence: Camping
Day-40
GONDOGORO LA - KHUSPANG
- Starting in the early hours to minimize the risk of stone fall as we descend from the Gondogoro La later. The ascent is normally all on snow, and we may need to rope up to cross the glacier to the base of the pass. On the steeper sections, ropes are in place to use as a handrail and for safety. From the top, the ‘big four’ are clear to the northeast, and to the south, we look down the Hushe valley dominated by the arrow-like Leila peak. The descent is initially a 45o snow slope, with the angle easing and the snow changing to screed as we descend. Our exact campsite for the night will be determined by our pace and whether or not we have been delayed. 9 to 10 hours walking. - Altitude: 4250m - Residence: Camping
Day-41
SHAIRCHO
- We continue on down the Gondogoro glacier, passing a camp at Dalsan and once off the glacier pleasant trekking through yak pastures and passing trees (the first we have seen since Paiju) take us to the village of Shaisho and on to the roadhead at Hushe. 5-6 hours walking total. - Altitude: 3650m - Residence: Camping
Day-42
SKARDU
- Three to four hours trek through summer pastures and shepherd huts and along the Gondogoro River, enjoying spectacular views of K6 (7282m), K7 (6934m), and Linksar (7041m) we reach Hushe village. A 5-6 hours jeep ride will take us to Skardu along the Shyok and Indus Rivers. Afternoon debriefing at the Ministry of Tourism, Skardu. Meals and overnight at the hotel. - Altitude: 2567m - Residence: Hotel
Day-43
CHILAS
- Transfer to the airport for a flight to Islamabad if the flight operates; otherwise, drive (9 hours) to Chilas along the Karakorum Highway. Meals and overnight at the hotel. - Altitude: 1265m - Residence: Hotel
Day-44
ISLAMABAD
- Free day in Islamabad or drive to Islamabad from Chilas for 12 hours. - Altitude: 512m - Residence: Hotel
Day-45
ONWARD
- Transfer to Islamabad international airport and onward to your own destination. Fly out en-route.
Transportation - Islamabad & Skardu airport pick and drop on arrival and departure. - Both ways air tickets between Islamabad – Skardu. - Air-conditioned car for briefing in the Ministry of Tourism Skardu. - Local bazaar transportation if required. - 4x4 Jeep / Toyotas between Skardu – Askoli – Skardu. - Air-conditioned car/mini bus between Islamabad- Skardu – Islamabad if required.
Accommodation based on below Hotels. - ISLAMABAD: Envoy Hotel - Type of Rooms: Twin sharing - Nights: 2 - *CHILAS*: Shangrilla Hotel - Type of Rooms: Twin sharing - Nights: 2 - *SKARDU*: Mashabrum Hotel/PTDC - Type of Rooms: Twin sharing - Nights: 4
Official Formalities - Broad Peak climbing permit fee. - Fully paid Government Liaison officer. - Insurance for local staff. - Tool taxes. - Bridge crossing and camping fees. - CKNP west management fee. - Documentation fee. - Population fee. - Government Taxes *Note: In case of pollution, fines/penalties will be the responsibility of the expedition/Trekking leader or member of the group.
Staff - A Professional Broad Peak Summiteer Climbing Sherpa with his international flight tickets, equipment allowance, daily wages, international flight tickets, and carrying bonus. - One well-experienced local guide who can speak English. - Cook who will provide various cuisines. - Kitchen boy to assist the cook. - Waiter to serve during trekking and camping. - Porter Sardar to lead low altitude porters on required places.
Porter - Way up from Askoli – Broad Peak base camp 50kg allowance each climber. - Way down from Broad Peak base camp – Askoli 50kg allowance each climber. *Note: Extra baggage will be charged at normal porter rates.
Kitchen Equipment’s - Complete kitchen utensils. - Lamp for light while trekking. - Chinese/Korean/Pakistani cooking stoves.
Camping Equipment’s - Member sleeping tent with comfortable moldy foam inside. - Comfortable chairs and table. - Toilet Tent. - Store Tent. - Hot shower tent.
High-Camp (Camp I-III) Equipment - High Tent, Shovel, Rope, EPI Gas, Gas Burner (MSR Rector), High Food, etc. - Oxygen (4ltr.) 3 bottles for each Member and 2 bottles for Climbing Sherpa for Broad Peak. - Summit Mask & Regulator set for each Member and climbing Sherpa. Note: Sufficient backup oxygen & mask regulator available at Base Camp (Chargeable as per use) in case of emergencies.
Food Services - Full board dishes besides tea times, fresh fruits, dry fruits, snacks at base camp, and while trekking. - All vegetables, meats, chickens, eggs for members and staff. - Chicken, mutton, Barbecue at Base camp. - Imported trekking and base camp foods.
Extra services - Electric Generator/ Solar systems. - Gas heating system in the dining at base camp. - Comfortable foam. - Bamboo sticks. - Assistance in obtaining the permit and other documentation. - Walkie-Talkie for climbing communication. - Thuraya satellite phone at base camp for emergency calls. - Assistance for international flight changes. - Dining mess tent covered by Inner and carpeted. - Korean plastic box, wooden box, and barrel for expedition equipment. - First aid medical kits for staff and porters.
- International flight tickets
- Pakistan visa fees upon arrival as per the rules of the Pakistan government.
- Bank/wire transfer fees (if applicable).
- Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Pakistan.
- Personal Travel Insurance and High-Altitude Insurance (Accident, Medical and Emergency Rescue Evacuation).
- Personal Trekking and Climbing Gears.
- Phone calls, internet, battery recharge, laundry, alcoholic beverages, bottled and canned beverages, specialty coffee or espresso drinks, etc.
- Drone & Special filming permit.
- Summit Bonus: US $1500.00 per Climbing Sherpa.
- Tips for cook and kitchen helpers.
Any other service costs not mentioned in the "Cost Includes."

Additonal Information

RECOMMENDATION

- It is strongly recommended to deposit a helicopter rescue evacuation deposit in advance ($5000/-). The entire amount is refundable if not used in case of emergencies on remote mountain ranges.

- Travel Insurance: Travelers/trekkers must have insurance that covers cancellation, accidents, health, emergency evacuation, and loss of items, or damage to baggage and personal effects.

- COVID-19 Certificate: Bring a COVID-19 certificate dated one week before your arrival in Pakistan.

 

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